I see a lot of people asking if they can fill a HPA tank with a home compressor. Right now - you can't. Unless of course you shelled out about $10,000+ on a compressor that can reach 3000-4500psi. That may all change.
Check out this facebook page about a prototype, mini air compressor that can fill 4500psi. They're targeting about $300-400 range. Apparently you can use a regular compressor to fill a 68/4500 tank in about 4 hours. Much longer if you don't use the home compressor.
Pretty exciting new product for the frequent ballers.
http://www.facebook.com/pages/Miniature-Compressor-for-Paintball/216287806129
1/20/10
There's something about AIR
For those that started way back in the day, you used co2. Screw in the tank, cock the marker, and take off the safety - done! The only real thing you needed to know was how many ounce tank you wanted. Now there's compressed air tanks and this causes so much confusion. I find myself helping a lot of people understand what it all really means for them.
First, there's size which is expressed generically as 'ci' (cubic inches). This is the physical volume inside of the tank measured in cubic inches. The bigger the number the more volume the tank thus more air.
Second, there's the tank pressure which is measured in psi (pounds per square inch) and most tanks are 3000, 4500, and the rarer 5000psi. The higher the number, the more air can be crammed into the tank.
Now let's talk about what these mean. The amount of air (shots per fill) will be based on both of these numbers. The 3000psi tank averages about 10 shots per ci of size and the 4500's about 15 shots per ci. So a 68ci/3000psi tank would have about 680 shots - a 68ci/4500psi would have 1020 shots. Same volume yet drastically different shot counts. Generally speaking, start by figuring out how many shots you want to have per tank fill. Then use that to calculate back to the sizes that will give you that shot count. One note, if you're looking for around 750+ shots, you're almost guaranteed needing a carbon fiber 4500psi tank.
One common confusion - my gun can't handle 3000 or 4500 psi of pressure. It doesn't need to. There's a pressure regulator on the tank (that's the top part with the gauge) that will drop the internal pressure from the 3-4.5K down to somewhere between 400-850psi. The output pressure of the regulator is what actually goes to the marker. The pressure output is referred to in low pressure (400-500psi) or high pressure (650+psi). This leads to this next confusion.
High Pressure vs. Low pressure confusion - There are two problems this causes. If you're not familiar, you might confuse a the high/low pressure reference to be about the psi capability of the tank. i.e. 3000psi is low pressure and 4500psi is high pressure. The tanks pressure rating is completely separate than the output pressure rating. Second problem, which does my marker use? The simple answer is that almost every marker readily available now can use a high pressure tank. There were a few markers made by WDP on the Angel line that required a low pressure tank. Blowback markers most definitely need high pressure to shoot and re-cock the marker. Many of the mid to high end markers run such a low operating pressure that a low pressure tank could be used if needed. Especially if you're buying the tank, get high pressure one anyway since it'll have a better resale value (usable by more markers) and won't limit you if you change markers.
Another confusion happens when people get a smaller ci tank because they want a more compact setup. Not always true. This is because some manufacturers make the tank shorter but wider making it more compact yet still hold more air. Also, the pressure regulators are not uniform in size so this will add or take off from the overall length of the tank. I had a friend wanting to swap out his 68/4500 Pure Energy tank for a 48/4500 because he wanted a shorter tank to bring his marker in tighter to his body. The problem there was going to be the loss of about 300 shots per fill. I did some research and found that he could get the Guerilla Air 68/4500 which would be just a bit longer than the 48ci he was looking at without sacrificing the shots. It's really due to their super short regulator. The Ninja 68/4500 was also a full 1" shorter than the old tank as well. I ended getting the Ninja myself and really like it.
First, there's size which is expressed generically as 'ci' (cubic inches). This is the physical volume inside of the tank measured in cubic inches. The bigger the number the more volume the tank thus more air.
Second, there's the tank pressure which is measured in psi (pounds per square inch) and most tanks are 3000, 4500, and the rarer 5000psi. The higher the number, the more air can be crammed into the tank.
Now let's talk about what these mean. The amount of air (shots per fill) will be based on both of these numbers. The 3000psi tank averages about 10 shots per ci of size and the 4500's about 15 shots per ci. So a 68ci/3000psi tank would have about 680 shots - a 68ci/4500psi would have 1020 shots. Same volume yet drastically different shot counts. Generally speaking, start by figuring out how many shots you want to have per tank fill. Then use that to calculate back to the sizes that will give you that shot count. One note, if you're looking for around 750+ shots, you're almost guaranteed needing a carbon fiber 4500psi tank.
One common confusion - my gun can't handle 3000 or 4500 psi of pressure. It doesn't need to. There's a pressure regulator on the tank (that's the top part with the gauge) that will drop the internal pressure from the 3-4.5K down to somewhere between 400-850psi. The output pressure of the regulator is what actually goes to the marker. The pressure output is referred to in low pressure (400-500psi) or high pressure (650+psi). This leads to this next confusion.
High Pressure vs. Low pressure confusion - There are two problems this causes. If you're not familiar, you might confuse a the high/low pressure reference to be about the psi capability of the tank. i.e. 3000psi is low pressure and 4500psi is high pressure. The tanks pressure rating is completely separate than the output pressure rating. Second problem, which does my marker use? The simple answer is that almost every marker readily available now can use a high pressure tank. There were a few markers made by WDP on the Angel line that required a low pressure tank. Blowback markers most definitely need high pressure to shoot and re-cock the marker. Many of the mid to high end markers run such a low operating pressure that a low pressure tank could be used if needed. Especially if you're buying the tank, get high pressure one anyway since it'll have a better resale value (usable by more markers) and won't limit you if you change markers.
Another confusion happens when people get a smaller ci tank because they want a more compact setup. Not always true. This is because some manufacturers make the tank shorter but wider making it more compact yet still hold more air. Also, the pressure regulators are not uniform in size so this will add or take off from the overall length of the tank. I had a friend wanting to swap out his 68/4500 Pure Energy tank for a 48/4500 because he wanted a shorter tank to bring his marker in tighter to his body. The problem there was going to be the loss of about 300 shots per fill. I did some research and found that he could get the Guerilla Air 68/4500 which would be just a bit longer than the 48ci he was looking at without sacrificing the shots. It's really due to their super short regulator. The Ninja 68/4500 was also a full 1" shorter than the old tank as well. I ended getting the Ninja myself and really like it.
1/14/10
Not loving the spindles
Spindles are those big giant spools on the field that are used to hold utility cables and common on paintball fields. It's been on my mind since I played a game on a field entirely of spindles. They're really big so they seem like good cover...at first. Spindles are more difficult than they may appear.
There's a technique which I call 'contour to your cover' when you are shooting around a bunker. Imagine a line from head to gun to elbows. Try to align that to your cover. If you're behind a vertical cover, you stay vertical. If the cover is slanted (think a speedball dorito), you lean to match the angle as much as possible. This will help keep 1/2 your profile hidden.
Now, what to do if the cover is round? There's the problem. You're going to expose more then you may want. Unless you're well over 6', most are limited to shooting around. If you're lucky to be able to shoot over the very top, it's less of a problem since it's not much different than any horizontal bunker. When you step out to shoot around, the curve at the bottom can leave your foot exposed. If you're playing someone behind a spindle - check the feet. You can weave your head pretty quick but feet stay fairly planted making it easier to get them. It's also something that a lot of people forget.
Spindles are tougher to play since there are so many ways to get over-exposed because of the round shape. You're shooting lane is pretty small if you try to stay covered. I've also seen guys try and shoot low under the curve but then you don't see the field.
Feel free to post any tricks that you find work well for spindles.
There's a technique which I call 'contour to your cover' when you are shooting around a bunker. Imagine a line from head to gun to elbows. Try to align that to your cover. If you're behind a vertical cover, you stay vertical. If the cover is slanted (think a speedball dorito), you lean to match the angle as much as possible. This will help keep 1/2 your profile hidden.
Now, what to do if the cover is round? There's the problem. You're going to expose more then you may want. Unless you're well over 6', most are limited to shooting around. If you're lucky to be able to shoot over the very top, it's less of a problem since it's not much different than any horizontal bunker. When you step out to shoot around, the curve at the bottom can leave your foot exposed. If you're playing someone behind a spindle - check the feet. You can weave your head pretty quick but feet stay fairly planted making it easier to get them. It's also something that a lot of people forget.
Spindles are tougher to play since there are so many ways to get over-exposed because of the round shape. You're shooting lane is pretty small if you try to stay covered. I've also seen guys try and shoot low under the curve but then you don't see the field.
Feel free to post any tricks that you find work well for spindles.
12/18/09
It's not always just skill
After playing some night paintball, I made some observations that made a difference in the game but had nothing to do with skill.
On one scenario, there were some serious dark sections to our team's right. The lights just weren't anywhere near that corner. A bunch of guys were hiding back there. Me and two buddies moved to intercept. Couple of the newbies were just doing the spray and pray into the dark just hoping. We couldn't see them that's for sure but we could find them. My friend was squared up with a milsim guy trying to use a laser. Which became his dead giveaway. My buddy waited for him to shift his attention to my other friend, then fired in at the source of the laser. The guy I was squared up with was a "peeker" (keeps peeking out for intell). Problem for him was the LED on the back of his loader reflected off the corner of his lens. Same thing - popped out and put two right at the reflection and scored a headshot. Light discipline is critical in night games.
The other side of the coin was using the way the light messes with your attackers. I found a good spot on one field were I was in the shadows and my attackers had to approach with a light overhead beaming down on them. This gave me a two fold advantage. First, they were in a well lit area so i could find them easily. Second, looking from light into dark makes the dark seem darker so they have a tougher time picking me out. As well as any lens scratches looking into those lights become horribly disctracting if not imparing vision. So the key is keep to shadows and find positions where your opponents won't have shadows. Oh, and have as scratch free mask as possible.
On one scenario, there were some serious dark sections to our team's right. The lights just weren't anywhere near that corner. A bunch of guys were hiding back there. Me and two buddies moved to intercept. Couple of the newbies were just doing the spray and pray into the dark just hoping. We couldn't see them that's for sure but we could find them. My friend was squared up with a milsim guy trying to use a laser. Which became his dead giveaway. My buddy waited for him to shift his attention to my other friend, then fired in at the source of the laser. The guy I was squared up with was a "peeker" (keeps peeking out for intell). Problem for him was the LED on the back of his loader reflected off the corner of his lens. Same thing - popped out and put two right at the reflection and scored a headshot. Light discipline is critical in night games.
The other side of the coin was using the way the light messes with your attackers. I found a good spot on one field were I was in the shadows and my attackers had to approach with a light overhead beaming down on them. This gave me a two fold advantage. First, they were in a well lit area so i could find them easily. Second, looking from light into dark makes the dark seem darker so they have a tougher time picking me out. As well as any lens scratches looking into those lights become horribly disctracting if not imparing vision. So the key is keep to shadows and find positions where your opponents won't have shadows. Oh, and have as scratch free mask as possible.
11/17/09
Oh yeah!
Just got my new NXE Gat pack 4+7. I have a head cover with skulls on it and my old pack was starting to fall apart so this seemed just perfect. Can't wait to get on the field with it.
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